1/26/18 UPDATE: I ran the MMP turbos at 30psi for about 500 miles and then my motor dropped compression on cylinder #3. I don’t think this was a fault of the MMP turbos. After removing the motor and turbos, I decided to convert to a single turbo setup for various reasons. Watch this video for the full scoop.
On a constant quest for more power, I found myself looking to upgrade from my stock turbos. There are a few different options available, and even some single turbo conversion kits. After doing some research, I was set on a pair of MMP Stage 3 turbos. They offer 700whp capability with OEM fitment and come at a great price. After hearing praises about Mauricio’s customer service at MMP, I decided it was a no-brainer and pulled the trigger!
I opted for fully-optioned MMP Stage 3 turbos which included a 2 year turbo warranty with the bearing treatment. These turbos require larger inlets and outlets, so I opted for MMP’s silicone outlets and aluminum relocation inlets since I already relocated things for aftermarket inlets on my stock turbos. I also ordered the turbo install kit because I wanted fresh o-rings, gaskets, etc.
After reading some DIY N54 turbo install guides, I decided to tackle the job in my garage on jack stands. This would be one of the most involved projects I’ve ever attempted on my own, but I knew it was possible.
If you’ve been following my website, you probably read my detailed post about installing a 335is/550i clutch after my OEM clutch wore out. However, with MMP Stage 3 turbos on the way, I knew the 335is clutch wouldn’t hold as I turned up the boost. With a goal of 700whp, I decided to replace it with a SPEC Stage 3+ clutch and retain my MFactory single mass flywheel.
When replacing your clutch, I highly advise that you also replace the factory dual-mass flywheel (DMFW) with a single-mass flywheel (SMFW). The OEM-style DMFW is known to create false knock, causing misfire issues at high power. If you aren’t aiming for more than 600HP, you probably won’t need this SPEC Stage 3+ clutch kit, you’d be better off with the 335is/550i clutch upgrade.
As some of you know, I was at the NoFlyZone Midwest event this past weekend. Got almost 25 passes in. The first day was rained out, but we got a few solo runs. Going 146mph in the rain is… interesting.
The weather on the second day was much better and I was able to clock a 156 MPH run!
Here is a compilation video of some cars I was able to run…
I saw a few posts online about people deleting the Clutch Delay Valve for a better clutch feel. Since I was already underneath the car, I figured I might as well try removing this thing:
I popped out the locking pins with a small screwdriver and pulled the valve right out. I quickly capped both lines with my fingers because I didn’t want to lose any brake fluid. After that, I simply connected the lines back together without the valve in place. Then I got to work on bleeding the clutch. The whole process only took about a half hour with the help of a friend. Look how restrictive it is!
This car has the best clutch feel out of any car I’ve ever driven. The CVD delete paired with the BMW Performance short shift kit and the BMS clutch stop really makes for an awesome driving experience.
I finally pulled the trigger on Burger Motorsports JB4 and decided to order the BMS clutch stop at the same time. Both products arrived in a few days and I installed them right away.
When I bought the car, the previous owner told me it had some sort of JB tune that was wired inline with the MAP sensor. After doing some research, I thought he was referring to JB+ which would increase boost an additional 2-5psi for an extra 20HP.
Before I could install JB4, I had to remove the JB+ chip that I thought was in the car. I removed the whole intake assembly but found no trace of the chip. I assumed the previous owner lied about it and continued on with the JB4 installation. Once I popped the ECU box open, I saw wires with electrical tape and some sort of aftermarket box with a toggle switch connected to it.
Since I was confused, I posted up a few pictures on N54tech and Terry identified it as a really old version of a pin-out JB3 tuner. The toggle switch was in the “off” position, so he advised me to carefully remove the harness and plug the wires back into the factory ECU connectors.