Since I had to remove my intake manifold while walnut blasting my intake valves, I decided it was the perfect time to tap the manifold for a larger vacuum line. TiAL recommends that their blow off valves be connected to 1/4″ vacuum line, not the small factory 1/8″ vacuum line. This is crucial on modified BMW 135i or 335i.
Once you have all of the parts, it’s a pretty straightforward procedure. First, cap off the existing port with a vacuum nipple and a zip tie. I like to leave this nipple untouched in case I were to ever go back to stock, then I can just plug the larger port we’re about to create.
Next you’ll want to find the flat surface next to the old nipple. Then you’ll start drilling a hole with a small drill bit and eventually work your way up to a 1/4″ bit or until the tap can thread into the hole.
Now you’ll use the tap tool to thread the plastic to accept the fitting. Run this tap into the hole until you can thread the fitting in.
Grab the fitting and wrap some teflon tape around the threads. Then carefully thread it in until it is nice and tight.
Lastly, you’ll bust out the epoxy and coat the outside so it won’t leak.
Vacuum or blow out any plastic shavings that are left in the intake manifold and reinstall. Now you’ll grab your new 1/4″ vacuum hose and connect it from the blow off valve to your larger port for ideal operation.
After owning my 1-series for over a year, I finally got sick of the halogen angel eye bulbs. I previously coded their voltage intensity up higher to make them brighter, but I still didn’t like the warm color.
So, I decided to buy myself an early Christmas present! LUX was running a sale, so I grabbed a pair of their latest and greatest angel eyes. Their H8 angel eyes advertised a pure white 7000k temperature with extreme brightness. Perfect!
I received them a few days after ordering and wanted to install them right away. All I had to do was pop the rear headlight covers off. They can be finicky, but you’ll figure it out. After the cover was off, I twisted the old bulbs out. Next, I inserted the new bulb and tucked the power supply box out of the way. Drum roll please…
A few weeks ago the car started making a squeaking noise. So, I popped the hood and started taking a video. Here is what I found:
As soon as I noticed the shredding serpentine belt, I drove home and parked the car. Ordered a new belt and tensioner, along with oil filter housing gaskets (#1 & #2) because mine were leaking. Once the parts arrived, I installed everything. Here is a picture of the OFH gaskets going in, what a mess…
Obligatory picture of the shredded belt: I put everything back together and assumed all was good. Wrong. About 50 miles later, the belt started shredding again. This time it started wrapping around the alternator pulley and burnt up the backside of the brand new tensioner pulleys.
Why do cars still come with halogen headlights and crappy interior bulbs? It’s 2015, Xenons and LEDs should be standard issue, since the 1 series is pretty old – I decided to take it upon myself to upgrade the interior lights.
It was just another day browsing 1Addicts when I stumbled upon a thread about custom front splittersby fmxomar. There was a ton of interest, but no one had installed one yet. For the price, I figured I’d pull the trigger on the front splitter and a set of side splitters.
I thought these two items would flow perfectly with the Rieger rear diffuser that I’ve had my eyes on. The parts arrived within a week and came with installation hardware, but no mounting holes. I guess that’s what a drill is for! First step: remove the front bumper.
I started off by clamping the splitter to the bottom of the bumper and then lined everything up. 9 holes later and it was attached. I still wanted to mount the OEM wheel wind deflectors, so I trimmed 1/2″ notches in the back of the splitter to make room.
Because both parts are plastic and the splitter wasn’t structurally mounted, I didn’t want to take the chance of it folding under at high speeds. So, I installed two APR support rods. It took a little courage to drill into a perfectly good front bumper, but it was a risk I was willing to take. I followed the center-flow design and made sure to use large washers on the back of the bumper. Everything was secure so I quickly re-mounted the front bumper. It is a very sturdy setup.
Overall, I am very satisfied with this splitter. I would not recommend mounting it without supporting rods, but feel free to do so at your own risk. Stay tuned for the side-skirt installation in about a month!
This car has been in need of a good detail and I finally got around to doing it. First I washed it with Meguiar’s Gold Class Shampoo, then went over the whole car with their Clay Bar Kit. I was surprised at the amount of crap the claybar took off. Then I used a high-speed corded drill with a velcro attachment for cutting, polishing, and waxing.
I took a picture before I started the cut/polish/wax process. Once I was finished, I took another picture to show the results. Keep in mind, the “before” picture is when the car was already washed and clean. The imperfections you see are all swirls or scratches, not dirt.
This animated GIF will switch between images. Click it for high-res.
In the two photos, you can see a lot of things in my garage reflecting off the paint. The two lines near the middle of the photos are power cords, not scratches. The lighter reflections above those are the power boxes on the light stands. All other bright imperfections are either lights on the ceiling, lights on the stands, or bright objects laying on the ground or on top of shelves. Obviously you can see the reflections of the yellow and red light stands themselves.