I want to kick off this post with a reminder that I’m installing the Doc Race single turbo kit outside of the car on an engine stand. Part of the reason I bought this kit was because I blew my motor which required to me remove and re-install a new motor. Great excuse to upgrade… right?!
Be sure to check out my separate blog post about everything you need to complete this swap, it will help tremendously as you read on.
The kit showed up about 4 weeks after I ordered it and came complete. I didn’t want to gamble with other vendors’ long lead times and kits that arrived with missing or poor-fitting parts. Doc Race knocked it out of the park and I’m glad I chose their kit!
Everything looked beautiful. I opted for the ceramic coating option and a ball-bearing 6266 turbo. The kit includes almost everything you need to convert to single turbo! Now let’s get these beautiful pieces where they belong…
Manifold studs replaced, manifold, heat shield and water pipe installed.
I had to mock-up the turbo… it did not disappoint.
Everything fit perfectly, just as it should. It was a lot easier to install the hot parts outside of the car, but I couldn’t do much more before having to install the motor.
Another night’s worth of work and I had everything else hooked up well enough to try starting the car. Since I was working pretty quickly, I didn’t document everything but I will highlight the important parts.
- Wrap the downpipe AND manifold in exhaust heat wrap!
- Use heat sheath on the oil feed line and vacuum lines .
- Clock the turbo so that the oil feed line is at the top center of the cartridge.
- Wastegate springs… install them accordingly.
- I initially installed the white & green TiAL wastegate springs (11.6psi) but was getting 17psi at wastegate pressure.
- I switched to the single black spring (8.7psi) and now get 11psi at wastegate pressure.
- This kit is known to overboost by ~2psi and TiAL underrates their springs.
- Once everything is installed, make sure the vacuum lines aren’t pinched or rubbing on anything. Go over them twice.
- Plug the Mac Solenoid into one of the OEM boost solenoid plugs. The other plug can be left unplugged, or you can leave an OEM boost solenoid plugged in (but not routed anywhere) to avoid a check engine light.
- If you’re using JB4, make sure you have the correct firmware and backend flash loaded. Go through this checklist on N54tech.
This was the first time I tried to turn over this used motor and see if the single turbo kit worked…
REJOICE! The long nights paid off.
ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY ADDITIONAL PARTS:
- Coolant Pipe Gasket
- Mac Solenoid
- Exhaust Heat Wrap – wrap downpipe AND manifold!
- Heat-Reflective Tape – use on valve cover & A/C line!
- Heat Sheath – use on oil feed line and vacuum lines
- BMW Coolant
- Motul X-cess 5W-40 Oil – 5L
- Motul X-cess 5W-40 Oil – 1L (2)
- Mann Oil Filter
- JB4 Tuner
- Download the free single turbo firmware
- MHD Flashing Cable
- OTG USB Adapter
MY UPGRADES FOR HIGH HORSEPOWER:
- XClutch 9″ Ceramic Twin Disc Clutch (for 700+whp)
- SPEC Stage 3+ Clutch and Single-Mass Flywheel (for 500-650whp)
- BMW 335is Clutch Kit (for 400-500whp)
- VRSF 7.5″ Race Intercooler
- BMS Charge Pipe & TiAL BOV
- Precision Raceworks Ignition Kit
- NGK spark plugs gapped @ 0.020″
- Precision Raceworks Stage 3 LPFP
- Precision Raceworks Port Injection Kit
- JB4 Port Injection Controller
- BMS Oil Catch Can
- BMS Upgraded PCV
- 3.5 Bar TMAP Sensor
- 3.5 Bar TMAP Sensor adapter harness
- Poly Transmission Mounts
- BMR 3.5″ Exhaust (if you have 135i)
- Corsa 3.5″ Exhaust (if you have 335i)
- Doc Race Intake Manifold
- MFactory 3.08 LSD
- DSS 1000HP axles
- Burger Motorsports differential brace
PARTS TO REPLACE WHILE YOU’RE IN THERE:
- NGK Spark Plugs (6) – if yours are older than 15k miles
- Ignition Coils (6) – if yours are older than 30k miles
- Front O2 Sensor (cyl 1-3)
- Front O2 Sensor (cyl 4-6)
- Rear O2 Sensor (cyl 1-3)
- Rear O2 Sensor (cyl 4-6)
- Index 12 Injector Kit
- Valve Cover Kit
- Water Pump Kit
- Oil Pan Gasket
- Oil Pan Bolts
- Oil Filter Housing Gasket
- Oil Cooler Gasket
- Pair of Motor Mounts
- Flywheel Bolts (8)
- Transmission Bellhousing Bolt Kit
- Serpentine Belt
- Tensioner/Idler Pulley
- Vacuum Lines
- Magnetic Drain Plug
TOOLS THAT MAKE THE JOB EASIER:
- Engine Brace
- O2 Sensor Removal Socket
- Magnetic BMW Spark Plug Socket
- BMW Jack Pad Adapter
- Spark Plug Feeler Gauge
- QuickJack System
- Torque Wrench
- Magnetic Work Light
- Cordless Screwdriver
- Pair of Jack Stands
- Low Profile Jack
Fast-forward to 6 months later. My experience with this kit has been fantastic and mostly problem-free. I had an O2 sensor die on me, but I ordered a pair from FCPEuro with a lifetime warranty. They’re fairly easy to swap out with the proper socket adapter and I’ll never have to pay for another sensor again.
I made 749whp and 643wtq at 29psi for those of you who like to push the envelope like myself. Otherwise if you’re easily amused, you can expect ~450whp at 11psi and ~550whp at 16psi. Check out my complete modification list if you’d like to follow my build.
I’ve done full lapping days at Road America with the car, brutal 1/2 mile events and even snapped an axle at the 1/4 mile track. The car is a blast to drive and sounds amazing.
I’m frequently changing my oil (every 2-3k miles) for peace of mind. Always keep an eye on things. Check vacuum and oil lines for melting or damage. Protect your ignition system from the hot top-mounted turbo. Just use common sense and stay on top of your maintenance and you’ll be fine. I couldn’t be happier with my decision!
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