It was just another day browsing 1Addicts when I stumbled upon a thread about custom front splitters by fmxomar. There was a ton of interest, but no one had installed one yet. For the price, I figured I’d pull the trigger on the front splitter and a set of side splitters.
I thought these two items would flow perfectly with the Rieger rear diffuser that I’ve had my eyes on. The parts arrived within a week and came with installation hardware, but no mounting holes. I guess that’s what a drill is for! First step: remove the front bumper.
I started off by clamping the splitter to the bottom of the bumper and then lined everything up. 9 holes later and it was attached. I still wanted to mount the OEM wheel wind deflectors, so I trimmed 1/2″ notches in the back of the splitter to make room.
Because both parts are plastic and the splitter wasn’t structurally mounted, I didn’t want to take the chance of it folding under at high speeds. So, I installed two APR support rods. It took a little courage to drill into a perfectly good front bumper, but it was a risk I was willing to take. I followed the center-flow design and made sure to use large washers on the back of the bumper. Everything was secure so I quickly re-mounted the front bumper. It is a very sturdy setup.
Overall, I am very satisfied with this splitter. I would not recommend mounting it without supporting rods, but feel free to do so at your own risk. Stay tuned for the side-skirt installation in about a month!
I’ve always preferred the look of smoked tail lights, but hate “murdered out” or black tail lights. I didn’t want VHT Nightshade anywhere near my BMW. Then I found out that BMW sells OEM tinted LCI taillights overseas.
I ordered the OEM Blackline tail lights from ECSTuning. I couldn’t wait to install them.
Taillights OFF – LCI Blacklines (left) vs. OEM pre-LCI (right)
Taillights ON – LCI Blacklines (left) vs. OEM pre-LCI (right)
The install was very straight forward and only took about 30 minutes from start-to-finish. The LCI Blacklines were actually brighter than my OEM taillights. I’m very happy with the purchase and believe they’ve transformed the rear-end of the car.
Click the link below to see more comparison pictures.
Continue reading BMW 135i (E82) – Blackline Tail Lights Install
This car has been in need of a good detail and I finally got around to doing it. First I washed it with Meguiar’s Gold Class Shampoo, then went over the whole car with their Clay Bar Kit. I was surprised at the amount of crap the claybar took off. Then I used a high-speed corded drill with a velcro attachment for cutting, polishing, and waxing.
I started with Meguiar’s Ultimate Compound on a 6″ foam cutting pad from Harbor Freight. After going over a body panel, I would let it dry and then wipe it off with a microfiber cloth. Next, I used Meguiar’s Polishing Compound on a 6″ polishing foam pad, again wiping it off with a microfiber towel once finished. The last step was applying Meguiar’s Black Wax with a 6″ foam finishing pad. Obviously wiping the excess off with a microfiber cloth.
I took a picture before I started the cut/polish/wax process. Once I was finished, I took another picture to show the results. Keep in mind, the “before” picture is when the car was already washed and clean. The imperfections you see are all swirls or scratches, not dirt.
This animated GIF will switch between images. Click it for high-res.
In the two photos, you can see a lot of things in my garage reflecting off the paint. The two lines near the middle of the photos are power cords, not scratches. The lighter reflections above those are the power boxes on the light stands. All other bright imperfections are either lights on the ceiling, lights on the stands, or bright objects laying on the ground or on top of shelves. Obviously you can see the reflections of the yellow and red light stands themselves.
Continue reading How-To: Detail a Black Car with Paint Correction
Last week, I bought a used BMS Dual Cone Intake kit on 1Addicts! It was just too good of a price to pass up. When I opened the box, I found a pair of very dirty white filters. I regret not taking pictures of them because they almost looked black.
After soaking them with degreaser and rising them off, they looked brand new again! A couple minutes in the sun and they were dry. Then I grabbed a can of K&N filter oil and sprayed a nice coat on top. To my surprise, the oil was red! My precious white filters were no longer white! Oh well… they still look great.
BMS claims that these puppies add at least 15HP to the wheels. I’m not sure how accurate that is but the sound is intoxicating! I had no problems with the K&N panel filter in the OEM airbox, but I read that it can be restrictive at higher boost levels. For only $25, I couldn’t go wrong with these. A quick test run proved that the car pulls great and sounds much better. Plus, I like the look of these under the hood.
When I bought the car, it came with a Riss Racing oil catch can. Good news, right? Well, not so much. After realizing how small the lines were, I couldn’t stop thinking about it. Why wouldn’t they utilize the large lines that the stock PCV system had? Plus, it’s mounted on the hot side, right on top of the turbos! Definitely a re-branded eBay part that I needed to get rid of…
Anyways, I bought a BMS oil catch can because it’s built from the ground up specifically for this car. It’s hoses exceed the OEM PCV piping in diameter and that flow rate is maintained throughout the entire catch can ensuring no excessive crankcase pressure buildup. Unlike the Riss Racing can, the BMS version is mounted on the cold side underneath the cowl for a stealthy look. Holding the two, the BMS oil catch can is the winner, hands down. Gotta love Burger Motorsports’ products.
Much better. The hoses are nice and thick and you can’t even see it once the cowl is back on. Very happy with the upgrade.
I ordered a Fuel-It! Walbro 255 inline fuel pump kit so I could run E85 fuel for more power. The factory LPFP could handle a smaller mix of E85, but it was maxed out at that. I met up with Bob for help with the install. He has installed the pump before and also has the flashing tools and software. We installed the pump this weekend and flashed the ECU with a free E85-specific flash that BMS offers.
First step: remove the fuel pump bucket from under the rear seats…
As you can see in the picture above, we unplugged the connections first. I didn’t take any pictures of the actual removal process. It’s fairly straightforward if you follow Steve’s instructions. Here it is, removed:
Continue reading BMW 135i & 335i – Fuel-It Stage 1 Fuel Pump Install (N54)
Beyond Redline hosted a dyno day this weekend and I wanted to find out what the car was putting down before I started modding it.
For only $60, why not?
She put down 283whp and 292wtq with only a K&N drop-in air filter and Riss Racing 3″ catback exhaust.
JB4 and catless downpipes coming soon…